A while back, we turned our appetites toward the Bunny Chow
served up at Jiko. Today, we’re heading back to Jiko for something for our
internal carnivores, the Grilled Berkshire Pork Loin.
The menu at Jiko is known to shift regularly, based upon the
freshest meats and produce that are currently available. Which means that the
same version of pork reviewed here may not be available, it’s likely that there
will be a comparable dish. This incarnation comes with Tanzanian “Grits,” Wilted
Heirloom Mustard Greens, Tomato Preserves, and Mustard Jus.
The pork, sliced on the bias, is juicy and smoky with a
flavor-filled crust that melts in your mouth and made me wish the medallions
were pure crust. Honestly, if they were trim off the shell of the loin and
offer it up as its own dish, I would dive in head first. To offset the sharpness
of the pork and mustard jus, the tomato preserves offers a sweet and tart
companion, which makes for a brilliant combination. Meanwhile, the heirloom
mustard greens add a bit of bitter roughage, perfect for balancing the textual
offerings of the dish. Lastly, the grits offer a strong, creamy starch
component that plays well with the other components of the dish.
The Grilled Berkshire Pork Loin may not always be on the
menu, but I would recommend it anytime that it is on the menu. No matter what
dish you choose to partake in at Jiko, the kitchen team at the cooking place
will not disappoint!
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