The Italy Pavilion has been doing a yeoman’s work over the
past several years to inject one of the country’s main exports back in the
forefront of the pavilion, cuisine. From an overhaul of Tutto Italia to the new
pizzeria, Via Napoli, there is barely a corner on this pavilion that has not
seen the addition of a world class eatery. Today, we’re venturing into the cozy
wine cellar known as Tutto Gusto.
The first thing you will notice upon entering the wine
cellar is that it has a very warm feel about it. There are large plush chairs,
dark wooden tables, and the stone walls and pillars that should make this a dim,
quiet space. However, there is warm cheery lighting, my personal favorite are
the lamps made from wine bottles, and a bright display case which keeps Tutto
Gusto feeling welcoming and friendly.
Tutto Gusto had been open for a few months when I was
finally able to stop by, and I very much wanted to get the full experience,
which means wine and a smattering of small plate items. When the wine cellar
first opened, guests were able to select a variety of meats, cheeses, and other
charcuterie elements, including olives and salads. The ability to order items
individually is still an option, and I especially recommend the olives, but
Tutto Gusto has worked very diligently to come up with some sampling plates
that are perfect for sharing. My group selected the L’Alpina and La Maiala
plates.
L’Alpina is a cheese plate which features cheeses that hail
from Italy’s northern province of Piemonte. The plate included a Fontina
Valdostana , a semi-firm cow’s milk, La Tur, a creamy blend of cow, sheep and
goat’s milk, and a Gorgonzola Cremificato, a sweet blue cheese. Some were
saltier than others, one offering was very smooth and perfect for spreading,
while another was more brittle and perfect for nibbling on, but that is the joy
of small plates such as L’Alpina. In fact, of the group I dined with, we all
had very different opinions on how each cheese ranked alongside the others, but
we all agreed they were all exquisitely crafted.
The same held true of the La Maiala plate, which included a
selection of salted and cured meats from Chef Barcatta. The Chef has excellent
taste, as well all thoroughly enjoyed each of the three meat offerings. This
plate included Prosciutto di Parma, an aged dry cured ham, Finocchiona, a
fennel and peppered salame, and Salametto, a small, dried, and spiced pork
sausage.
Each of the plates also included a suggestion for a wine
flight that would pair well with the components of the plates. The flights at
Tutto Gusto are not simply thrown together, but hand-selected based on region,
type of grape, or seasonal flavors. For my part, I went a bit off menu and
tried the special wine flight that was announced on a card at the table, but
not on the menu. It was called Old Face, New Places for its inclusion of
recognizable grape varietals, but in a new composition.
The flight included 2 oz. pours of a Chardonnay, a 2010
Tenuta Di Nozzole ‘Le Bruniche,’ a Pinot Noir, a 2009 San Giuseppe, and a Zinfandel,
a 2009 Primaterra Primitivo. So, what do I mean by ‘new composition’ of the
wines? As a general rule with white wines, particularly Chardonnay, I like a
crisp wine. In the case of the Le Bruniche, however, I found a buttery wine
that felt comfortable just resting in my mouth and that had the feel of liquid
sunshine to it, as silly as all of that sounds. The Pinot Noir was dark, which I
expected, but also a clean, light feel to it. In other words, it didn’t linger
on my palate as most Pinot Noirs do. I tend to like Old Vine Zinfandels, and
the Primitivo, the original grape of California’s Zinfandel, is probably about
as old vine as you can get, and I loved every sip of it.
Tutto Gusto has many other food offerings, including
sandwiches and pasta dishes, but the small plates with some fantastic wines
will always gobble up my attention. Tutto Gusto may not be the perfect place to
dine with your family, but for a quiet, romantic pause, or a place to sit and
talk with a group of friends you haven’t see in a while, this is the place to
be. I have yet to sample anything at Tutto Gusto that would leave a bad taste
in my mouth, and I’m willing to bet I’ll never find that dish or glass either.
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