If you’ve hung around the Gazette for any length of time,
you’ve probably noticed that I have a soft spot for charred anything. Burnt
ends, crispy bits of cheese, and the list goes on and on, but chances are if it
has been burnt a little bit, then I’m going to like it. This explains why, with
just a small picture and brief description, I was ready to dive headlong into
the Char Siu Pork from the Jungle Navigation Co. Ltd. Skipper Canteen without
so much as a second thought.
The official menu description lists the Char Siu Pork as
marinated grilled pork medallions served with Chinese broccoli. It also comes
with your choice of either five-grain or white rice. This is a fair
description, but doesn’t totally give you an idea of what you’re ordering. From
the pictures and the descriptions, I knew I was headed into red meat on a stick
territory, or how I describe one of my favorite items on the menu at our local Chinese
buffet, but only better. To be complete accurate, Char Siu is a specific common
manner in which meats, particularly pork, are prepared and barbecued in Cantonese
cuisine. Usually it is thin strips of pork that have been skewered and then
roasted over a fire.
The Skipper Canteen has taken this style of preparation to
heart and has created a dish that I would order again and again if it weren’t
for the fact that I have so many dishes left there to try! Each meal comes with
three to four strips of pork that have been grilled to perfection. Not dried
out, which is easy to do with pieces of pork this thin, and not overly juicy,
but just right. It’s the Baby Bear bed of grilled pork. The glaze is a mixture
of honey and other spices. I forgot to ask what specifically the spices were as
I devoured the Char Siu Pork, but it definitely had the making of a five-spice
powder. The glaze didn’t suppress the flavors of the meat, but instead worked
in tandem with the pork and charring to produce a mouthwatering entree.
The Chinese broccoli is not your typical broccoli. It has
longer stalks and less bushy florets, and it tastes a little bitterer than
typical broccoli. That’s okay as it works well paired with the sweetness of the
pork. As for the rice, the five-grain probably would have added some complexity
to the dish, as well as being a more substantial starch, than the white rice I
ordered. Either way, mixing the rice with the pork drippings and excess glaze will
give you a couple of flavorful bites.
The Char Siu Pork is another hit for us at the Skipper
Canteen. It hits all the right notes for this self-proclaimed fan of charring
and all-things Asian barbecue, but is easily accessible to less adventurous
eaters. I would be happy to dig into this again and again, and as I make my way
through the menu, I’ll probably convince my dining partners to order this, just
so I can snag a bite or two for myself!
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